Those of you who have been following know that I felt that Bouchon hadn’t lived up to its standards on a recent visit.  You’ll be happy to know that we returned last night and everything was perfect.  Service by Kyle was attentive and careful.  Our first waiter Krzysztof dropped by our table a number of times to make certain we were well taken care of.  Now, in addition to the crispy epi, one is greeted with a white bean puree topped with a glistening layer of olive oil and small toasts.  I am absolutely addicted to the leeks vinaigrette with its cottony blanket of sieved egg.  The butternut squash soup was creamy and satisfying.  I tried the daily quiche, which was florentine.  Thomas Keller’s quiches are masterpieces of egg and cream.  I’ve tried with varying degrees of success to recreate them.  He layers the ingredients inside a sturdy (not flakey) crust made with quantities of butter that defy physics laws and baked in a spring-form pan.   The quiche florentine was rich and moist, tempered by the earthiness of the spinach.  I ordered it with brussels sprouts, sauteed until darkened on the edges in beurre noisette and capers until they were as sweet as candy.  The gnocchi with seasonal vegetables was even more delicious that I remember with the addition of smokey black olives.  And as always, the setting was wonderful.   The entire dinner was a great success.  I’m glad we went back.