If you haven’t yet been to Culina at the Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, stop what you’re doing, go to Opentable and make a reservation now.  You will not regret it.  The newly remodeled restaurant bears little resemblance to the previous one.  The interior space is beautifully decorated, bright, and modern.  But I recommend asking for a patio seat.  You’ll be swept past the crudo bar and onto one of the loveliest spaces for al fresco dining in LA right now.  This is what you want Beverly Hills to feel like; comfortable and welcoming yet refined and elegant with a slight clubby feel.  I was instantly at home when I took my place on an overstuffed banquette on a recent visit, the balmy evening air heavy with the perfume of orange blossom and night blooming jasmine.  John, our server, was friendly and helpful as we studied the menu.  The chef is Victor Casanova who has previously worked in Scottsdale, Las Vegas, and San Francisco.   I decided on the ‘piccoli piatti’, in which one chooses three of many small plates as a starter.  My piati consisted of  fava beans with mint and pecorino, artichoke with lemon and rosemary, and eggplant with pesto and caprino (an Italian fresh goat cheese).  All three were thoroughly delicious, but it was the fava beans which made me melt.  Likewise the ‘mista’ salad consisting of ribbons of asparagus, raw artichoke, mushrooms, arugula, and lemon vinaigrette balanced the flavors perfectly and rivals the best carciofi salads in town (Toscana and Ago).  We went straight for the pizzas.  The  charming manager, Kelly, came around to check on our dinner (a nice touch).  With tongue in cheek, she told us that they were going to push Mozza’s pizzas out of the limelight.  While I love Mozza, personally I prefer a thinner crust like Gjelina.  Here they get it right; crisp, thinner than Mozza but still substantial, charred in places, and wonderfully flavorful.  The tartufo (truffle) pizza was remarkable.  Other menu items looked impressive as well; a tableside panzanella for two, arancini with truffle oil, spaghetti alla chitarra, a balsamic potato carpaccio pizza.  The  entire experience was wonderful.  I can’t wait to return.