S. Irene Virbila’s lovesong  in the LA Times notwithstanding (she gave it three stars), here’s what we think of Bouchon.

After a few visits to Bouchon, Thomas Keller’s latest outpost next to the Montage hotel, we were able to formulate some impressions.  Having eaten at Per Se in New York, the French Laundry in Yountville, and Bouchon Las Vegas, and Bouchon Yountville, we had a certain expectation for food, ambience, and service.  While at the French Laundry and Per Se, a vegetarian is spoiled for choice with luxurious garden tasting menus, Bouchon is a bit more limited.  Our first foray into BBH was spectacular.  We didn’t have a reservation and were seated outside on the patio.  Thankfully it was one of those Southern California winter evenings in the 70s and the view was fantastic.  Within minutes a warm sourdough epi served was placed directly on the tablecloth (as in France).  Accompanied by cultured butter, the loaf was delightfully crispy outside and moist and delicious inside.  It was irresistible as we contemplated the folded paper menu.  Our waiter, Krzysztof expertly and efficiently guided us through the wine list and the choices with just enough Polish humor to make the evening completely enjoyable.  (We were all hysterical as he carefully corrected the Polish swearwords I vaguely recalled from childhood.)  We started with the poireaux en vinaigrette et oeufs mimosa (leeks vinaigrette with sieved egg) and salade maraichere au chevre chaud (mixed green salad with warm goat cheese).  The salad was very good, but the leeks vinaigrette was spectacular.  Perfectly poached and chilled leeks (not slimy as they sometimes can be) with the vinaigrette, little piles of minced piquillo pepper, and a cumulus cloud of sieved egg made for a wonderfully balanced and completely delectable first course.  My main was the gnocchi a la Parisienne, various fricasseed vegetables in a beurre noisette with the most addictive gnocchi, shaped like Vienna sausages that had been sautéed to create a ‘skin’ that upon being bitten into, gave way to creamy, fluffy interior.  We also sampled the macaroni au gratin, excellently executed with crispy breadcrumbs on top, and of course  pommes frites.  The evening was so perfect we couldn’t wait to return.

With such high expectation, we were a little surprised by our next visit.  We were sat in the grand dining room resembling a salon in Paris.  Surely this must be the loveliest dining room in Los Angeles right now.  The scene was convivial and loud.  But interestingly, the service was slow and inattentive.  The server barely made an appearance at our table, glasses went unfilled, and empty plates sat in front of us an unusually long time.  When we finally were able to flag someone down to order wine, the man sent to our table (whom I assumed to be the sommelier) acted confused and insulted when asked if he could describe the characteristics of a particular Marsanne.  “I’ve never tasted it,” was his indignant reply which confused us all.  Since he offered no other suggestions, we ordered it anyway.  Happily the food was just as good.  The salade de betteraves et poires was perfect, as was the laitue, bibb lettuce salad.  The leeks were just as delicious but curiously diminutive compared to last time.  I again ordered the gnocchi to find the dish was even better with the addition of quince.  And the profiteroles were as good as any I’d ever had.  The impersonal service notwithstanding, the evening was still a success.  We are most definitely looking forward to our next visit, only we’ll ask for Krysztoff to be our server.

Bouchon Beverly Hills, 235 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills, CA 90210

310.281.5680  bouchonbistro.com