The Cesars are France’s equivalent of the Oscars. Toddrickallen was invited to the luxurious Hotel George V to honor a dear friend’s 70th birthday which ended up doubling as a private viewing party for the Cesars because the host of the party was the producer for the nominated film, La Premiere Etoile (The First Star). Unfortunately the film didn’t win, but that was the only disappointment in an otherwise flawless evening. The lavish hotel, one of Paris’ loveliest, was fantastically decorated with mountains of purple flowers everywhere one looked. The lobby and dining room were populated by the most beautiful people, all dressed to the nines. The soiree was held in the Salon Anglaise. The Georges V’s Michelin three-starred chef, Eric Briffard is a holder of an MOF, (Meilleur Ouvrier de France). He had created a vegetarian menu exclusively for us. The first course was a tarte fine aux champignons de saison marines, chutney d’aubergine legerement fume (seasonal marinated mushroom tart with smoked eggplant chutney). It was divine and full of flavor. The main course, risotto carnaroli cremeux, artichauts cuits et crus, tuile craquante au vieux parmesan (Artichoke risotto with parmesan tuile) was expertly executed. Rich and creamy, it had just the right bit of tooth to the rice. The satisfying umami kick of the parmesan tuile finished the dish perfectly. Fabrice Lecleir, the pastry chef, ended the meal with a wonderfully decadent chocolate mousse cake. The wines that were served were a Macon-Bussieres Domaine Saumaize 2008 and a Cote de Castillon Chateau Manoir du Gravoux 2006. After dinner, we danced to music spun by a DJ, and ended up in our friend’s suite with its jaw-dropping view of the Eiffel Tower. It was a perfect evening.
Laduree, Paris
For me, no trip to Paris is complete without a visit to Laduree in Place de la Madeleine. It’s just sooo French. I love the tiny boite of a dining room with its antique paneled walls and tiny tables squeezed in so tightly that you’re in everyone’s conversation. Sitting at the tables are patrons right out of central casting; grand ladies dripping with pearls sizing everyone up over barely touched salads. The food is always wonderfully consistent. Readers may remember an earlier post on Laduree London, when I drool over the veggie sandwich. This time, I started with an amazingly creamy and rich butternut squash soup. For my main, I chose the black truffle souffle. which was thoroughly delicious. After dining, I headed straight into the crowded patisserie to stock up on cocoa powder, marron glacee, and the most spectacular pastries to nibble on later. There are a number of Laduree shops and tea rooms around Paris as well as in a few select countries, but this one, in the shadow of the magnificent Madeleine church, is always my romantic favorite. www.laduree.fr
Jean-Paul Hevin, Chocolatier
Anyway, back to Paris… I love strolling along the Rue Saint-Honore: gaping at the amazing window shopping, peeking inside the grand high palace of snottiness that is the Hotel Costes, or dreaming of my future steamer trunk at Goyard. A fantastic place to refresh oneself is Jean-Paul Hevin Chololatier, at 231 rue Saint-Honore (www.jphevin.com), a tea room and pastry shop. The pastries and chocolates are to die for, and I stock up on bars of chocolates from places in the world that you never even suspected grew cacao. This time I settled on chocolate from Cuba. These bars of chocolate will, upon returning home, be turned into chocolate souffles and gateaux for guests at my dinner parties.
A Deal From Susan Feniger’s Street
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Oprah Winfrey at Cut
On Saturday night, after a terrible meal of belgian endive salad with an odd fishy taste and oily pasta with over-cooked vegetables at the ridiculously noisy Villa Blanca in Beverly Hills, we happened by the Beverly Wilshire to restore our faith in restaurant industry. And who should I bump into, and I mean bump into, but Oprah Winfrey, who was dining there with Tom Hanks, Rita Wilson, and Gayle King. After I embarrassingly blurted out that I loved her, she graciously took my hand, reassuringly smiled at me, and repeatedly told me, “Thank you!” She even refused to let go of my hand as she was pulled away by the rest of her party. Now, Angelenos work very hard at ignoring stars so as not to appear like tourists. However, I was gob-smacked! I know this sounds cliche, but there is something about her presence and the way she looked at me that made me feel like I was the most special person in the world to her. I’m still basking in after-Oprah glow.
Fauchon
First stop is always for coffee and pastry at Fauchon, Place de la Madeleine. Founded in 1886, the grand epicerie, patisserie, restaurant, and delicatessen, is a culinary masterpiece and foodie’s heaven. I return many times over my visit to Paris to refresh myself, shop for exotic products such as vadouvan, and purchase tantalizing gifts for friends back home. Fauchon’s blueberry confiture (jam) is a favorite petit cadeau for my stateside friends. Always wonderfully elegant, even the plastic spoons used to stir your coffee are Philippe Stark. In my whirlwind gastronimic tour of Paris, Place de la Madeleine, home to not only Fauchon, but also Hediard, Laduree, Maison de Truffe, and now Mariage Freres, is always ground zero.
Bonjour, Paris!
Flying into Paris always fills me with that anticipatory internal tickle I experience when something truly exciting looms on the horizon. My head swims with the million or so things I hope to accomplish when there. To divert my racing mind, I watch the movie “Funny Face” on my IPhone. And while the improbable relationship between the aging Fred Astair and the pixie-like Audrey Hepburn has all the chemistry of a visit to a convalescent hospital, the glorious sight-seeing scene set to the song, “Bonjour Paris”, always thrills me and sets my mouth to watering over one of the most wonderfully vibrant cities on earth, Paris, France!
Celia’s Irish Scones
Cecelia Gannon of Donaghadee has long been know for her famous scones. Scones are an essential part of Irish tea-time. They are not the heavy, dry triangles one sees at Starbuck’s. Rather, they are always round, lightly crumbed and slightly sweet. Celia’s are a classic example of the Irish version of these wonderful treats. Her recipe is a simple and easy to remember ratio of 6, 4, 2. This recipe is a great example of how our grandmothers used to bake: Not by exacting and careful measuring but by instinct. Feel free to experiment and add in various other ingredients such as currents, orange zest, pecans, or whatever you want. Personalize the recipe and make it your own!
Cecelia’s Irish Scones
6 ounces of self-rising flour
4 ounces of butter
2 ounces of sugar
Mix together the sugar and flour. Cut in the butter until thouroughly incorporated. Mix an egg into an amount of buttermilk. Make a well in the middle of the four/butter mixture. Pour in the egg/buttermilk and using your judgment, use only enough to moisten the dry ingredients as you stir, stopping immediately when you have a ball of dough. Knead breifly. Flour a countertop lightly and roll out the dough until it is about 1 1/2 inches. Using a round biscuit cutter, cut out the scones and place on cookie sheet lined with silpat or parchment paper. Brush top with a beaten egg if you wish. Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 15 minutes. Serve with clotted or whipped cream and jam.
Grace Neill’s Bar, Donaghadee, Northern Ireland
Au Revoir, Los Angeles…
Four Cheese Truffle Pizza
What could be better for a quick celebratory dinner than a truffle pizza. I got the Italian-made base from Bay Cities on Lincoln Blvd. The cheeses and truffle came from Andrew’s Cheese Shop. I slathered the crust with garlic-infused olive oil (smash a clove of garlic, drop it into the oil, then microwave for about 20 seconds), then sheep-milk ricotta, boschetto al tartufo (truffled sheep/cow cheese from Italy), then a vintage cheddar, and an Italian fontina. As soon as the cheese is bubbling and beginning to brown, pull it from the oven and shave on fresh truffle. Divine!
Wine Classes at Mozza
This just came in from Mozza:
Pizzeria Mozza is thrilled to present new Wine Director/Sommelier, Amanda Courtney as she continues with our unique wine education program.
Please join us either Saturday or Sunday for a special experience of wines from the Alto-Adige…
Amanda will conduct an hour and half wine tasting/class on both days that will present delicious libations with traditional food pairings from this lovely region in Northern Italy.
Space is limited and will be booked on a first come, first serve basis.
$49 per person
Saturday or Sunday, February 27th & 28th
3:30-5:00 pm
Jack Warner Room, Pizzeria Mozza
Please call our confirmation line to book: 323.866.5300
Light antipasti will be served. Inquiries for dinner reservations welcome!
Le Cafe de Joel Robuchon, Tokyo
Without question, the best ‘OMG-I’m-so-glad-to-be-off-the-plane’ meal I have had in a long time was at Le Cafe de Joel Robuchon in the wonderfully impressive department store Takashimaya, Nihonbashi, Tokyo. It was a simple egg salad sandwich, but the execution and tastes were perfect. In addition to the herbed egg salad, the bread was spread with a tomato confit and the sandwich was served with crispy french fries, house-made ketchup, Japanese pickles, and gazpacho. After a long flight of indigestible slop masquerading as plane food, I nearly wept with joy at the sight of this meal. (I asked for ‘Asian Veg” on JAL. They brought me some mysterious substance that looked and tasted like a loofa sponge in flavorless cornstarch sauce. I asked the attendant what it was. She told me the name in Japanese. When I looked confused, she disappeared briefly. She must have consulted a Japanese/English dictionary because she returned and proudly stated that it was a “sub-aquatic fungus”. A SUB-AQUATIC FUNGUS!!!)
Roves Des Garrigues
As I usually do, I leave the choices for cheese courses at my dinner parties completely to the discretion of Andrew Steiner at Andrew’s Cheese Shop. Since one of my guests on Saturday night was lactose-intolerant, the challenge for Andrew was a completely cow-free selection. He made some remarkable choices such as the extroardinary Boscshetto al Tartufo from Tuscanny, a domestic Tommes, and a sheep and goat mix called Chaparral from Sant Luis Obispo. The the hands-down favorite was an extroardinary Provencal goat cheese, Rove des Garrigues. According to Andrew, the cheese is produced from a native breed of goats, the Rove. The native vegetation of the region of the Garrigues perfumes this soft and creamy cheese with scents of thyme, laurel, fennel, and citronella. But what stood out was a strong flavor of lavender. The wonderful richness together with the incredible flavors of Provence sent our tastebuds into the epicurian stratosphere. You must try this cheese!
728 Montana Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90403 (310) 393-3308 www.andrewscheese.comUpcoming Pizza Classes at Mozza 2 Go
Scuola di Pizza Class Schedule
Thursday, March 4th & Thursday, March 25th Pizza Classes.
Thursday March 11th Chocolate Workshop.
RESERVATIONS CAN BE MADE BY CALLING: 323.297.1130
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Spumoni Cafe and Pizzeria in Brentwood
Spumoni Cafe and Pizzeria, an offshoot of Spumoni in Santa Monica, appears poised to open in Brentwood at 11714 San Vicente (Thank God, I was beginning to tire of the 28,000 other Italian restaurants in Brentwood.) An employee told Toddrickallen that it will be open either Friday (2/19) or Monday at the latest. Obviously they’ve had a few setbacks as evidenced by the chalkboard, but if the popularity of Spumoni in Santa Monica is any indicator, they should have a fighting chance.
Mr. Chow Beverly Hills
Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills remains one of Toddrickallen’s favorite restaurants for special occasion dining. It just feels like a destination. The food is consistent. As do most, we leave the selection up to the waiter, who usually produces the stock vegetarian menu. They will bring a menu if you insist. We enjoyed the lettuce wraps, noodles, and delicious tofu. But we don’t really go for the food. Eating at Mr. Chow is theatre. When you’ve stepped past the paparazzi, velvet rope, and bouncers, you enter another world. And it is soooo LA. I have to admit, I love the drama; the women who look like walking bilboards for Louis Vuitton, the siliconed and big haired out-of-towners hoping to hook up, the uncomfortable looking men of a certain age sitting across from 20 year old models in mini-togas (in February!), and the stars (and there are always stars). On Saturday night, Stevie Wonder nearly stepped on my feet as he wisked past the crowded entry. What could be more fun on a Sturday night? One note: We had a 45 minute wait for an 8:00 table reservation… plan ahead!
Mr. Chow, 344 N. Camden Dr., Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 278-9911Valentines Brunch
What could be better on a sunny Los Angeles Valentine’s day than an impromptu al fresco brunch? I made a simple frisee salad with white balsamic vinaigrette, pecans, and parmesan shavings to accompany the coddled eggs with shaved black Perigord truffle all washed down with a fine glass of Dom Perignon. To make coddled eggs, firstly, one needs egg coddlers. Egg coddlers are porcelain cups with metal screw-on lids and a ring at the top. They may be difficult to find. Mine are from Royal Worcester, who I believe invented the egg coddler. Butter the inside of the cup. In the bottom, I put a little cheese. This time I used Boschetto, a truffle cheese from Italy. In go two eggs, then a splash of cream and some salt and pepper. The lid is then tightly screwed onto the egg cup and the cups are lowered into a saucepan of gently boiling water. I boil them for about 8 or 9 minutes, so the yolks are still runny but the whites set. I top them off with shaved black truffle. Served with crusty bread, Heaven! Here’s hoping your Valentine’s day is filled with delicious moments!
Brunch At The Polo Lounge
In ‘must-find-the-next-new-thing’ Los Angeles, some of the loveliest old school places get overlooked. At least once a year, Toddrickallen makes a pilgrimage to Beverly Hills. There’s hardly a more beautiful place to sit and listen to jazz on a sunny February Sunday afternoon than the patio of The Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel. The brunch menu is straight forward. (If you ask, they will change the eggs benedict into florentine and add a portobello mushroom.) But there’s something about that combination of sun, and charm, and glamorous people that casts a dreamy spell. It’s also a great place for star watching. We chatted briefly with Dustin Hoffman and his lovely wife. Gene Simmons from Kiss was also there. Absloute magic!
The Polo Lounge, 9641 Sunset Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 276-2251Veggie Grill Watch
Eater LA has confirmed that Veggie Grill is moving into the Sizzler space on Wilshire at 20th in Santa Monica in October. Good news for Westside vegans. How do you compare Veggie Grill’s southwest chicken sandwich with Native Food’s chicken sandwich? (Hint: They’re related…)


























