Stay tuned, Toddrickallen is off to Paris. I’ll be posting on the food scene in the City of Lights over the next few weeks. Stay tuned! A Dieu, mes cheres!
Au Revoir, Los Angeles…
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Author Archives: toddrickallen
Four Cheese Truffle Pizza
What could be better for a quick celebratory dinner than a truffle pizza. I got the Italian-made base from Bay Cities on Lincoln Blvd. The cheeses and truffle came from Andrew’s Cheese Shop. I slathered the crust with garlic-infused olive oil (smash a clove of garlic, drop it into the oil, then microwave for about 20 seconds), then sheep-milk ricotta, boschetto al tartufo (truffled sheep/cow cheese from Italy), then a vintage cheddar, and an Italian fontina. As soon as the cheese is bubbling and beginning to brown, pull it from the oven and shave on fresh truffle. Divine!
Wine Classes at Mozza
This just came in from Mozza:
Pizzeria Mozza is thrilled to present new Wine Director/Sommelier, Amanda Courtney as she continues with our unique wine education program.
Please join us either Saturday or Sunday for a special experience of wines from the Alto-Adige…
Amanda will conduct an hour and half wine tasting/class on both days that will present delicious libations with traditional food pairings from this lovely region in Northern Italy.
Space is limited and will be booked on a first come, first serve basis.
$49 per person
Saturday or Sunday, February 27th & 28th
3:30-5:00 pm
Jack Warner Room, Pizzeria Mozza
Please call our confirmation line to book: 323.866.5300
Light antipasti will be served. Inquiries for dinner reservations welcome!
Le Cafe de Joel Robuchon, Tokyo
Without question, the best ‘OMG-I’m-so-glad-to-be-off-the-plane’ meal I have had in a long time was at Le Cafe de Joel Robuchon in the wonderfully impressive department store Takashimaya, Nihonbashi, Tokyo. It was a simple egg salad sandwich, but the execution and tastes were perfect. In addition to the herbed egg salad, the bread was spread with a tomato confit and the sandwich was served with crispy french fries, house-made ketchup, Japanese pickles, and gazpacho. After a long flight of indigestible slop masquerading as plane food, I nearly wept with joy at the sight of this meal. (I asked for ‘Asian Veg” on JAL. They brought me some mysterious substance that looked and tasted like a loofa sponge in flavorless cornstarch sauce. I asked the attendant what it was. She told me the name in Japanese. When I looked confused, she disappeared briefly. She must have consulted a Japanese/English dictionary because she returned and proudly stated that it was a “sub-aquatic fungus”. A SUB-AQUATIC FUNGUS!!!)
Roves Des Garrigues
As I usually do, I leave the choices for cheese courses at my dinner parties completely to the discretion of Andrew Steiner at Andrew’s Cheese Shop. Since one of my guests on Saturday night was lactose-intolerant, the challenge for Andrew was a completely cow-free selection. He made some remarkable choices such as the extroardinary Boscshetto al Tartufo from Tuscanny, a domestic Tommes, and a sheep and goat mix called Chaparral from Sant Luis Obispo. The the hands-down favorite was an extroardinary Provencal goat cheese, Rove des Garrigues. According to Andrew, the cheese is produced from a native breed of goats, the Rove. The native vegetation of the region of the Garrigues perfumes this soft and creamy cheese with scents of thyme, laurel, fennel, and citronella. But what stood out was a strong flavor of lavender. The wonderful richness together with the incredible flavors of Provence sent our tastebuds into the epicurian stratosphere. You must try this cheese!
Upcoming Pizza Classes at Mozza 2 Go
Scuola di Pizza Class Schedule
Thursday, March 4th & Thursday, March 25th Pizza Classes.
Thursday March 11th Chocolate Workshop.
RESERVATIONS CAN BE MADE BY CALLING: 323.297.1130
IMPORTANT *
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Spumoni Cafe and Pizzeria in Brentwood
Spumoni Cafe and Pizzeria, an offshoot of Spumoni in Santa Monica, appears poised to open in Brentwood at 11714 San Vicente (Thank God, I was beginning to tire of the 28,000 other Italian restaurants in Brentwood.) An employee told Toddrickallen that it will be open either Friday (2/19) or Monday at the latest. Obviously they’ve had a few setbacks as evidenced by the chalkboard, but if the popularity of Spumoni in Santa Monica is any indicator, they should have a fighting chance.
Mr. Chow Beverly Hills
Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills remains one of Toddrickallen’s favorite restaurants for special occasion dining. It just feels like a destination. The food is consistent. As do most, we leave the selection up to the waiter, who usually produces the stock vegetarian menu. They will bring a menu if you insist. We enjoyed the lettuce wraps, noodles, and delicious tofu. But we don’t really go for the food. Eating at Mr. Chow is theatre. When you’ve stepped past the paparazzi, velvet rope, and bouncers, you enter another world. And it is soooo LA. I have to admit, I love the drama; the women who look like walking bilboards for Louis Vuitton, the siliconed and big haired out-of-towners hoping to hook up, the uncomfortable looking men of a certain age sitting across from 20 year old models in mini-togas (in February!), and the stars (and there are always stars). On Saturday night, Stevie Wonder nearly stepped on my feet as he wisked past the crowded entry. What could be more fun on a Sturday night? One note: We had a 45 minute wait for an 8:00 table reservation… plan ahead!
Valentines Brunch
What could be better on a sunny Los Angeles Valentine’s day than an impromptu al fresco brunch? I made a simple frisee salad with white balsamic vinaigrette, pecans, and parmesan shavings to accompany the coddled eggs with shaved black Perigord truffle all washed down with a fine glass of Dom Perignon. To make coddled eggs, firstly, one needs egg coddlers. Egg coddlers are porcelain cups with metal screw-on lids and a ring at the top. They may be difficult to find. Mine are from Royal Worcester, who I believe invented the egg coddler. Butter the inside of the cup. In the bottom, I put a little cheese. This time I used Boschetto, a truffle cheese from Italy. In go two eggs, then a splash of cream and some salt and pepper. The lid is then tightly screwed onto the egg cup and the cups are lowered into a saucepan of gently boiling water. I boil them for about 8 or 9 minutes, so the yolks are still runny but the whites set. I top them off with shaved black truffle. Served with crusty bread, Heaven! Here’s hoping your Valentine’s day is filled with delicious moments!
Brunch At The Polo Lounge
In ‘must-find-the-next-new-thing’ Los Angeles, some of the loveliest old school places get overlooked. At least once a year, Toddrickallen makes a pilgrimage to Beverly Hills. There’s hardly a more beautiful place to sit and listen to jazz on a sunny February Sunday afternoon than the patio of The Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel. The brunch menu is straight forward. (If you ask, they will change the eggs benedict into florentine and add a portobello mushroom.) But there’s something about that combination of sun, and charm, and glamorous people that casts a dreamy spell. It’s also a great place for star watching. We chatted briefly with Dustin Hoffman and his lovely wife. Gene Simmons from Kiss was also there. Absloute magic!
Veggie Grill Watch
Eater LA has confirmed that Veggie Grill is moving into the Sizzler space on Wilshire at 20th in Santa Monica in October. Good news for Westside vegans. How do you compare Veggie Grill’s southwest chicken sandwich with Native Food’s chicken sandwich? (Hint: They’re related…)
Return to Bouchon Beverly Hills
Those of you who have been following know that I felt that Bouchon hadn’t lived up to its standards on a recent visit. You’ll be happy to know that we returned last night and everything was perfect. Service by Kyle was attentive and careful. Our first waiter Krzysztof dropped by our table a number of times to make certain we were well taken care of. Now, in addition to the crispy epi, one is greeted with a white bean puree topped with a glistening layer of olive oil and small toasts. I am absolutely addicted to the leeks vinaigrette with its cottony blanket of sieved egg. The butternut squash soup was creamy and satisfying. I tried the daily quiche, which was florentine. Thomas Keller’s quiches are masterpieces of egg and cream. I’ve tried with varying degrees of success to recreate them. He layers the ingredients inside a sturdy (not flakey) crust made with quantities of butter that defy physics laws and baked in a spring-form pan. The quiche florentine was rich and moist, tempered by the earthiness of the spinach. I ordered it with brussels sprouts, sauteed until darkened on the edges in beurre noisette and capers until they were as sweet as candy. The gnocchi with seasonal vegetables was even more delicious that I remember with the addition of smokey black olives. And as always, the setting was wonderful. The entire dinner was a great success. I’m glad we went back.
For My Carnivore Friends…
I noticed this sign at Fred Segal/Santa Monica…
N.Y. & C. Pizzeria & Bar, Santa Monica
Toddrickallen tried the new(ish) pizzeria on Wilshire (in the old Toi space), N.Y. & C. Pizzeria this week (One cannot live on Mozza’s and Gjelina’s pizzas alone.) When we arrived around 7:30, the place was crowded and noisy. We were seated at a table but quickly discovered that talking was nearly impossible due to the din. Luckily, some people left and we moved to a more conversation-friendly booth. We ordered drinks. Those drinking beer found a good selection, including some rarities such as Belgian lambics. The wine drinkers were less lucky as selection left a little to be desired. We settled on a mediocre torrontes. The food itself was ample and satisfying. Salads were fairly classic pizzeria affairs of lettuce, cheese, cucumber, croutons, tomatoes, and olives in vinaigrette. The vegetable pizza we ordered was deliciously cheesy and fresh, although the crust lacked the crispiness and flavor of some other pies, such as Joe’s. All in all, the friendly staff and convivial atmosphere created the quintessentially classic pizzeria experience and everyone left satisfied.
Sunset at Pink Taco
Say what you want about the food, but the patio of Pink Taco in the Century City shopping center, is a perfect place to toast the sunset with a margarita.
New York’s Fig & Olive in Brentwood?
A reliable tipster sent me information that Fig & Olive Kitchen and Tasting Bar http://www.figandolive.com/, the sunny New York chain with a strong emphasis on regional Mediterranean olive oils, is attempting to take the vacant space next to Lululemon on the corner of San Vicente and Montana ave. in Brentwood (CA). There will be a public hearing on February 3rd to decide it’s fate. The problem? Brentwood residents seem to feel that there are too many restaurants on San Vicente already and parking can be a nightmare. (They should be grateful it’s not another run-of-the-mill Italian joint.) Apparently the chain was offered the penthouse restaurant at the Hotel Angeleno, but they declined hoping for the San Vicente space instead. I say good luck Fig & Olive!
Recipe for Madeleines
Recently a reader requested my recipe for madeleines, the extroardinary teacake from France. Except for dinner parties, I seldom bake. (Hello… this is Los Angeles… who actually eats sweets?) But when I do, my go-to recipe is always the reliably fantastic madeleine. It is simplicity itself. But it’s power is immense. Marcel Proust was launched on a dreamy reverie by the mere taste of a madeleine, resulting the the masterpiece, Remembrance of Things Past. Feel free to experiment. Anyone who has been to Fauchon in Place de la Madeleine in Paris knows that they only make about a million variations. I sometimes add 1/4 cup finely chopped pecans. Enjoy!
(adapted from a January 2000 Bon Appetit recipe)
Madeleines
2 large eggs
2/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon good vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel (use organic unwaxed)
pinch salt
1 cup all purpose flour
1 1/4 sticks of unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
powdered sugar
Preheat oven to 375degrees (I use 350 degrees truconvec on my Viking). Lightly butter the madeleine molds (mine are nonstick from Williams-Sonoma-they just fly right out!). In a stand-up mixer (or hand-held), beat eggs and sugar until blended. Add vanilla lemon peel, salt and mix in. Beat in flour until just blended (any more and you’ll have dreaded ‘tunnels’ in your finished product). In a slow, steady stream, beat in melted butter on low and stop as soon as it is incorporated. I usually stir the last of it in by hand. Spoon batter into molds. I prefer large madeleines, so I fill the molds about 3/4 full. For me, this recipe makes about 15, but you can use less batter and get more. Bake for 9-10 minutes depending on your oven. As soon as you see crispy brown edges, take them out. Overbaked, they become dry and chalky. Let them cool in the pan for about 1-2 minutes, then tip them out onto a countertop to finish cooling. When completely cool, dust the brown side with powdered sugar. Perfection!
“And as soon as I had recognized the taste of madeleine soaked in her decoction of lime-blossom which my aunt used to give me (although I did not yet know and must long postpone the discovery of why this memory made me so happy) immediately the old grey house upon the street, where her room was, rose up like a stage set…”
-Marcel Proust Remebrance of Things Past
Marmalade Class at Surfas
A reader sent this in….
Saving the Season
What: Learn how to make winter citrus marmalade in this free demo from canning enthusiast Kevin West and owner of Bee Green Farms, Bettina Birch.
Why: To can or not to can? No longer a question.
When: Sat., 11 a.m.-1 p.m.
Where: Surfas, 8777 W. Washington Blvd., b/t National Blvd. & Helms Ave., Culver City (310-559-4770).
What: Learn how to make winter citrus marmalade in this free demo from canning enthusiast Kevin West and owner of Bee Green Farms, Bettina Birch.
Why: To can or not to can? No longer a question.
When: Sat., 11 a.m.-1 p.m.
Where: Surfas, 8777 W. Washington Blvd., b/t National Blvd. & Helms Ave., Culver City (310-559-4770).
Thyme Cafe/Market
If you live in Santa Monica and have a hankerin’ for some Joan’s On Third action but don’t have your passport and shots in order to cross the 405, then Thyme Cafe/Market is for you! If you haven’t been yet… what the hell is keeping you?! Thyme Cafe/Market is wonderful! Despite the homogeneous crowds, the atmosphere is bright and airy. They have a great selection of sandwiches, salads, and take-away foods. The quiches are perfectly executed. The desserts are fantastic. Michael, one of the managers, seems extremely intent on providing friendly service. The other day, he overheard me asking about how the brocolli was prepared. Later, a plate of it appeared on our table. This place is definately a new fave!
1630 Ocean Park Blvd. • Santa Monica • 310-399-8800 • Monday – Saturday 7am-7pm
Dosa Truck
This past Saturday, a myriad of food trucks parked at TLofts in West LA for a benefit for the Red Cross to assist Haiti. We had to check it out. Competition was stiff as the breeze brought sweet scents from the likes of Buttermilk Truck, The Grilled Cheese Truck, Sweets Truck, and others. But as we only had a few minutes, we headed straight for Dosa Truck. I love innovative Indian food and have often been disappointed in LA. (Tanzore has great ambiance but ok food, and Bombay Cafe hasn’t changed its menu in how many years?) It would make us very happy to see an Indian resto the likes of which you see in London such as Amaya. Until that day, one may have to look for little glimmers of hope in the smallest places. Dosa Truck’s Mong was very sweet to accomidate our lack of time. We had the Goa Goodness, which is spinach, cheese, and mushroom with bright and cheery coconut and tomato chutneys all wrapped in the perfectly crispy dosa (a rice/lentil pancake). It was washed down by a bitingly refreshing ginger/limeade. It made us very happy. (One piece of advice, eat the dosa horizontally. I tipped it upright and a waterfall of chutney flowed into my lap.)
dosatruck.com
Toddrickallen 
